Dear sirs: Saw a reflection of myself and was appalled. What with Friday's gut-busting eat-a-thon, the Λοστρέ κουζίνα's beetroot spread with yogurt and walnuts, and its kontosouvli chunks of grilled pork (Pitheou 32), chased by a Greek salad and plate of fried shrimp at Margara (126 Chatzikiriakou in Piraeus), I am feeling attacked. Not to mention the free desserts. I will not be placated by these furry dining companions you keep sending me. You will be hearing from my lawyers.
The city has a lovely, decaying quality — both doomed and beautiful. I suspect that inheritors of many properties are waiting for just the right offer. Athens is the size of Chicago but in many ways remains a village. As for the rest of Greece? After emerging from bankruptcy, it is back in the EU's good graces. Yet prices are uncomfortably high, tax evasion is real problem, and people continue to arrive on little boats. The capital is an intoxicating place. Waiting for an elevator that is just wide enough for my elbows, I hear Arabic and Indian music leaking from my neighbors' doors. I want so much for them to invite me inside, offer me tea and an uncommon biscuit. Yes, I have an active fantasy life. So many dogs to pet! I home in on the handsomest breed, telling this guy his beagle was well-marked. "Thank you. But he is a little crazy." You don't say! Half the traffic in the city center involves small-displacement motorcycles carrying puffy tourquoise food...
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